
Loch Voil looking back towards the starting point
The stunning early summer weather was continuing in early June 2018. A few of my friends had been discussing an attempt to swim the length of Loch Voil. This loch lies in an east west position in the middle of Rob Roy country. The man himself is buried in the churchyard at Balquhidder, having died in 1734. It is also the site of the last part of the Jacobite Rebellion from the 1740s (with that rebellion featured in Outlander). Both of these events would be ancient history in Australia (settled by Europeans in 1788), but in Scotland, that is much more recent event (they still talk about a battle that took place in 1314).
The loch itself is stunning nestled between hills and is about 125m above sea level. The outflow the River Balvaig flows into Loch Lubnaig, about 8km away. Eventually the water from this loch flows into the River Teith and then the River Forth to exit into the North Sea at Edinburgh. The loch has a single-track road alongside its northern shore from Balquhidder to its terminus near the Monachyle Mhor Hotel. It is around a 90 minute drive north of Glasgow, or about 60 miles. It is around 5.6km long, and 27m deep at its deepest point, with the foreshore of about 13.5km.

Swimmers just about to start
The organisation for the swim was not easy, as we had to arrange to leave a number of cars in Balquhidder and ferry the 20 or so swimmers up to the eastern end. We would then leave the cars there, and after the swim take the cars from the finish back to the hotel to collect the ones left behind at the start. Simple. But the problem was the forecast for the day was in one word idyllic, so we had to limit the numbers who were going to attempt the swim to twenty or so.
It was an early start leaving Glasgow in the dawn light, driving up past Stirling Castle and The Wallace Monument. The glimpse of the morning light on the peaks of the Highlands is always beautiful and this day was not different. The forecast was right, there was not a cloud in the sky, and more importantly, no wind at all.

The required photo at the start of the swim
Upon arrival we organised our kit which we put in our tow floats. For most of us this would be food and drink, and perhaps footwear in case a walk back along the ride was required. I was not feeling confident of making the distance as I had not done enough swimming, with the only long swim been a swim around Inchtavannach earlier in the week. However, I was still on a buzz from the filming with Billy Connolly the week before.

In we go
We piled into the cars and drove up to the starting point of the swim. It was a perfect day for a swim in a gorgeous location. I had decided to swim without the wetsuit, expecting the water to be nice and warm (by Scottish standards) around 18c.
A short walk down from the carpark (thanks to the hotel for giving us permission to leave our cars there) to the start of the swim. It was truly magical. In we went, and the water was warm. The plans were to swim closer to the northern shore for access to the road if required. The loch is only around 400m wide for most of its length, so it was a straightforward swim. The exit point was to be a field to the left of an island that sits at the end of the loch.

Look at that sun on the walk to the start
Off we went, and the fast swimmers in their wetsuits took off like dolphins compared to my relaxed pace. I knew this was going to be a swim of at least two hours or so, so there was not rush. Just settle into a nice rhythm and try to achieve that sense of moving meditation. Like a lot of my longer swims it seemed to take around a km or so before I felt totally comfortable, but I have learnt to expect that. Today was no exception but gliding through that still warm water was just amazing, following the bubbles left behind by some of the other swimmers.
Fairly soon I was swimming by myself, but I was not worried. I knew there were lots of swimmers both ahead of and behind me, and it was not far to a shoreline. There was also a shore-based team patrolling the road in case anyone needed assistance. Swimming on a day like this was not a chore, but a delight, with stunning vistas whether I breathed to the left or the right. After 80 minutes or so my body was telling me it needed a fuel stop, and I headed for the southern shore. I had a gel and a drink, and just sat and admired the view.

Another swimmer with their tow float
On the way again, and before long I was clambering out through a muddy shoreline at the end of the loch. I was pleasantly surprised to see that I had done the 5.9km swim in just under two hours. Shortly after I finished, I noticed several others also finishing so I waited for them to get out. Like me they were on a high after a swim like that on a perfect day.

We made it
A short walk through the field to the car park, and back to the cars where we had left our towels and clothes. Lots of excited chat from all the swimmers, some of whom had just done their longest swim ever.

A final view of Loch Voil
It was then back to Mhor 84 for a well-earned lunch. What a day. A huge thanks to Vince for doing most of the logistics for this swim, and to all the swimmers who made the day so enjoyable.

A pod of swimmers having a rest at the narrows
Loch Lomond in which I swim throughout the year has many islands in it. One of the joys of the early summer is going on the first swim around Inchtavannach, often in the early evening. The summer of 2018 was proving to be the best since the amazing one of 1976. If that was the reward we were given after the Beast from the East in late winter, that was fine by me. All that it took was for the clouds to clear for a few weeks, enabling the sun to beat down, and turning the normal lush green grass of the local parks to the more familiar brown to this Australian’s eyes. This was the summer that Glasgow recorded its highest ever maximum temperature of 31c (where I grew up that was the temperature after the cooling sea breeze had blown the heat away).

Enjoying the views in the narrows
A bit about Inchtavannach, which translates as Monk’s Island, as there used to be a monastery there. These days, the 70 hectare (around 170 acres) island has one farm with only a couple of residents. The swim around the island is 4 km or so. It is separated from the mainland by a narrow channel approximately 400m wide. In the winter that distance is just too far to risk for a swim, as we would wait until the water gets up to around 10c.

Swimming towards Ben Lomond
Inchconnachan sits to the east of Inchtavannach and they are separated by the narrows that are around 50m wide. It is uninhabited, its name means island of the Colquohon (a local family) and is about half the size of Inchtavannach. Its major claim to fame is that it is home to a mob of red-necked wallabies that were introduced to the island in the 1940s. A swim around both islands is around 5.5km.

Swimming down the narrows
One of my swim friends was planning a long swim in Loch Lomond in August, so he wanted to do several swims to get his fitness up. So, over the months of June and July we swum around Inchtavannach four times, and around Inchconnachan once. We would normally go in the early evening, and in June and July it is easy to start at 730pm, and still have plenty of light to finish the swim. We also started one swim at 5am, and there is something more beautiful swimming in the stillness of the dawn.

Looking north towards the top of Loch Lomond
The entry point for our swims is normally at Aldochlay, but it is also possible to swim from Luss, which would add another km or so onto the swim. For some reason we normally swim in a clockwise direction, but that would also depend upon the wind direction. I must admit the first I swam it in the reverse direction I had to be more careful with my navigation at it does look so different.

The resident Highland Coos of Inchtavannach
A clockwise swim would start with the crossing of the channel and then heading north, keeping Inchtavannach on the right, swimming towards Ben Lomond. There is something magical about the early evening light in Scotland as it hits the hills, especially on a clear day.

The Joshua Tree sitting on Inchconnachan
Around the northern point, and then swim towards the Joshua Tree that sits on Inchconnachan. Turn right up the narrows, and if you are lucky you might catch sight of the resident highland coos. Wind through the narrows, which makes you doubt you are in Scotland, with the lilies out in flower and the water smooth as glass. Then through the back bay, keeping an eye on any boats moored to the shore as they fire up their barbecues for dinner.

The lily pond in the narrows
We would often stop at the southern entry to the bay, with views southwards towards Inchmurrin and Duck Bay, as there was a nice shallow bank to rest one and eat any food or drink that we had in our tow floats. Then along the south east shore keeping off the shore to avoid the shallows, and a fence line that wades into the loch.

Time for a refreshment break, looking back towards the narrows
The southern tip of Inchtavannach would be the next sighting point, with the channel markers just offshore a useful reference point. Around the corner, and then back up the channel to Aldochlay. A wonderful way to spend an hour and a half or so, with amazing warm water (we had around 20c to 21c) to enjoy in skins, and you never tire of the vistas.

Ben Lomond looking majestic in the evening light
The swim around Inchconnachan is similar, but at the Joshua Tree you keep going around, avoiding the narrows. Coming around the eastern side of the island you swim between it and Inchmoan and aim for the shallow bank on the Inchtavannach swim.

The final part of the swim along the channel towards Aldochlay
I hope you enjoy the pictures. I cannot wait to get there again this summer, as nothing says summer in Loch Lomond like these stunning swims.

Looking over Inchmoan towards Conic Hill

Dawn breaking over the Greek mainland
This entry is been written during the great Covid-19 lockdown of March and April 2020; that odd time of a pandemic with people told not to leave home. A time when borders are closed, and airlines no longer fly all around Europe and the rest of the world. A time to look back on the period before the virus when short haul flights to Greece from the UK were quite normal. A time when it was normal to line up in a confinced space, surrounded by strangers. A time to spend a week at a luxury resort, with only concerns been what time to have a meal, and where to have it; what time to go for a swim; and which seat would I get on the flight. Nostalgia is a wondrous thing.

The calm seas at dawn
In May 2018, it was back to Corfu for another week’s holiday at one of those resorts where you had access to three meals a day and a several bars. Where there was a large beach looking towards the Greek and Albanian mainland, and day loungers carrying the weight of fellow guests scattered around one of the two swimming pools.

One of the two pools at the resort
My daily routine was well established. I would get up just before dawn, and walk down to the beach in my shorts and t shirt (a novelty for a resident of Scotland). I would then go for a leisurely swim as the sun was rising, watching the staff on the early shift starting their day. To be in the relatively warm sea at that time of day was the best way to start the day. I would often go a few kms down the coast and back again, and watch the light changing intensity as it hit the hills and lit up the water.

The beach at dawn: so calm and peaceful
I would then go back to the room, and have a shower and get ready for a nice breakfast overlooking the sea. Ah that coffee was good, and the fresh fruit with eggs and bread. Then back to the room for a nap, and then another swim before lunch. I always swam in the sea, letting the lifeguard know that I intended to swim around the perimeter, so that he would not worry. By this time, he knew me well, as I was one of the very few guests going for long swims in the sea. We would chat if he was not busy about swimming, living in Corfu, and the state of the Greek economy
I would sometimes go to the local taverna for lunch, a nice little place sitting right over the water, with wonderful fresh food and a few pints of the local ice cold beer. Or a bus trip into Corfu Town to wander around the old town and soak up the atmosphere of the city, with its Venetian, British and Greek influences.

Swimming up to the taverna for a refreshing drink and meal
In the late afternoon, I would then go for yet another swim. At this time of day it was not unusual for the wind to have picked up somewhat, creating some chop to make my swims more fun. At this time of year the days were still very sunny and warm, and it was such a wondrous thing to feel the sun on my back, after a long Scottish winter.

Cheers
Another shower to rinse off the salt, and then off to dinner and then the bar for a few drinks. Repeat each day for a week. For those interested in my stats, I only swam 24 km that week.

Just another sunrise over the very calm sea
Ah, from where I sit now writing this, it all seems so exotic. Those days of freedoms that we only dream of at this time. Those times of just jumping on a plane and flying to Greece for a holiday with a choice of flights. Let us hope those times come again very soon.

Sunset on Loch Linnhe
A few of us had decided to enter the Highland Open Water Swim event at Resipole in late April 2018. This swim was advertised as a mile swim across a sea loch called Loch Sunart, with swimmers escorted across by boat to the far shore and a swim back. A fairly accurate description of what transpired. I like to support the Highland Open Water Swims when I can, as they raise money for good causes, and they swim in some amazing locations.

Looking north up Loch Linnhe towards Fort William
Resipole is located 200 km north of Glasgow, a three hour drive, on the Ardnamurchan peninsula, with the only access a single track road once you get the ferry across the Coran narrows. The peninsula is renowned as one of the more isolated parts of the UK, and also has the distinction of being the westernmost part of the UK mainland. To get there the drive from Glasgow takes you up past Loch Lomond, through Glencoe (that spooky spectacular valley), then on the Corran ferry for a short 400 metre ride across Loch Linnhe, before driving through Strontian (gave its name to the element strontium). It is a very lovely drive as you skirt the sea lochs, keeping your eyes out for deer and sheep grazing by the side of the road.

Corran Narrows Lighthouse and ferry
As the swim was scheduled to start early on the Saturday morning, I decided to stay overnight in the village of Corran. Despite been only 400 metres across from the very busy A82 road, it was a very quiet and beautiful place to spend a stunning evening watching the sky change colour as I looked up the Great Glen towards Ben Nevis, Fort William, and the start of the Caledonian Canal. There was still a hint of winter in the air though, with the hills around Glencoe still graced with patches of snow.

Patches of snow looking towards Glencoe
I left the hotel after a hearty Scottish breakfast and drove down to the registration point at Resipole campsite, where several of my friends had stayed in their vans the previous night. It was an idyllic spot, facing Loch Sunart, a sea loch that runs west to east. The registration process was quick and easy.
We gathered for our briefing at the finish point of the race: the slipway near the campsite. We were to be ferried across to the southern side of the loch and our job was to swim back to the slipway. The distance was around a mile, but if the tide started to run, or the wind picked up it would be a longer swim. For this event, as the water was only 8c I had decided to wear all my neoprene: yes the wetsuit, gloves, boots and hat. Most competitors did likewise, but there was a few swimmers doing it in skins, and they had my admiration. The day was cool at 12c, and the wind was to forecast to pick up during the race creating a push from right to left.

Swimmers taking the ride to the start point in Loch Sunart
We waited our turn to be whisked across in the ribs and support craft. It is a fun way to start an event, been driven to an isolated point, dropped off and told to wait for all swimmers to assemble. The skins swimmers had the honour of been the last to arrive, which is a sensible safety precaution in these conditions.

Swimmers gathering on the southern shore for the start
The sun was nice and warm in our sheltered spot. I looked back to the campsite and tried to pick out some features of distinctive hills and buildings to sight off. I could see the wind was slowly picking up strength, so I decided to head to the right of the slipway to allow for the movement of the water to push me to the finish point.
I must admit it was a very odd start to a race as we clambered down off the rocks and through the kelp and weed to commence our swim. Then I remembered that while this was an event, it was not actually a race, and more of an experience to enjoy a swim in the wilds of Scotland. As I swam away from shore I kept my eyes on my sighting point, and glided past several swimmers and watchful kayakers.

The finish point there somewhere….I aimed for the houses on the right and the hill behind them
The swim was enjoyable, and it was great to have the taste of salt water again. As we got further into the loch, the side push became more obvious, but it was fairly consistent which made navigation easier. Fairly soon I could see that there were only a few swimmers in front of me, of which one was the windmill arms of Mr V as he headed to another first place. For me though, it was not so much about racing, but more about enjoying the opportunity to swim in a place like this. So I was very surprised to see that I came third when I arrived at the finishing point. After we arrived, we chatted and waited for our other friends to finish the event, and they all had huge smiles in their faces.

Rugged up against the cold 8c water
A thoroughly enjoyable event, that made me want to enter more of the swims this group run. If you want to do some swims in amazing places on the west coast of Scotland, then do yourself a favour and make the effort and look up Highland Open Water Swim in your search engine. The water safety do a vey good job, and the support crew are friendly and make the event memorable. I would thoroughly recommend doing one of their many events.

Aldochlay on Loch Lomond looking serene though cold in late March 2018
As the winter settled in Scotland, I took some time to get over the disappointment I felt from the ice km event. I knew that I had to get more cold water swims in all-weather conditions, to prepare me for any future attempts. Luckily, the area around Glasgow is ideal for winter swimming, with plenty of locations to choose from. Our normal swim time is 9am on a Saturday morning, and in mid-winter that is daybreak at these northern altitudes. That means driving to a swim in the dark.

A light dusting of snow on the lower reaches of Ben Lomond

Luss beach with the pier in the background and Honeymoon Island to its left
In the middle of February the New Cumnock outdoor 25m pool was opened for a night swim. This pool had recently been renovated and the night of the swim had us greeted by a blanket of light snow on arrival in the village, around a one hours drive south of Glasgow. The water was a delightful 12c, and it was good to swim in water that warm under the stars. The best thing was the hot outdoor shower after the swim.

New Cumnock pool on a cold winter’s evening
At the end of February, we ventured to Loch Lubnaig for what turned out to be the coldest swim of the year. There was ice on the edge of the loch as we shivered in the -2 air, and the water was a brutal 1.7c. I managed a mere fifty metre swim that morning in skins, and it was painful. I am full of admiration for hardy swimmers who brave those conditions.

Loch Lubnaig with ice at the edge and not much warmer in the water

A dusting of snow down the slopes of Ben Ledi above Loch Lubnaig
The winter of 2018 was proving to be the coldest since my arrival on these shores in 2014. In late February the whole of the UK was tortured by the so called beast from the east. Cold winds blowing in from Siberia hit Glasgow with a big snowstorm that dumped 30cm of snow. Roads were impassable, with drivers caught on the motorways overnight trapped by the ice and snow. The railways shut down, mainly because the train drivers were finding it difficult to report for duty. Schools and offices shut as the city closed, fearing a repeat of the bad storms of 2010 where people had to walk home along the motorways. Glasgow turned into a winter wonderland, and I had the joy of watching people on skis, snowboards, sledges (or Toboggans or sleds) on the streets as the cars slowed to a crawl. It was great to hear children laughing and playing the in the snow. I was amazed that there were virtually no vehicles with snow-chains on their tyres, and I recalled many a time putting them on driving to the Australian ski-fields. They did give extra grip in these conditions.

The snow piling up in the street in late Feb 2018

No trains today

The cityscape after the snow had fallen

A usually busy Sauchiehall Street looking deserted

Traffic crawling along Pollokshaws Road as the snow keeps on falling
The good thing about the cold weather was that it dropped the temperature in the lochs. The bad thing was that I could not go for a snow swim as I was unable to get my car out for a few days after the snow stopped falling.

Still the snow falls

Queens Park was busy with snow sports

Even the vines caught some snow

No chance of enjoying a swim in this pond as it freezes solid
By the time I managed to get back to the lochs for outdoor swims, I had too long a break, with over 4 weeks between dips. When I went back in I could not even put my face in the water and only swam for less than sixty metres. Even though the water that day was only 3c, I knew that if I wanted to get longer in the water I would have to put the wetsuit back on.

Luss on a foggy morning that we waited to lift before going in
So that is what I did, and it did confuse a few of my fellow skins swimmers to see me decked out in neoprene again. I was back to swimming a mile in the wetsuit, as the water slowly warmed up to 5c at the start of the April, and then to 6c by the middle of the month. I had even managed a swim from Luss to Honeymoon Island and back, which is always a good test of water tolerance.

Luss on Loch Lomond looking cold with snow on the hills
I was now well on the way to be ready for my summer of swimming ahead.

A swan welcoming committee at Duck Bay on Loch Lomond
Well 2017 was certainly another fantastic year with lots of swimming adventures. I will get the boring statistics out of the way first:-
But they of course do not tell the whole story, so here is the summary of the year.

Luss Pier at dawn in early January
In January I continued my winter skins swimming in Scotland, with the coldest water of 4.0c on New Years Day in Loch Lomond.

Ben Lomond wearing a skirt of fog in early January 2017, and reflected in Loch Lomond
In February I competed at the British Ice Swimming Championships in the 50m sprint event, and took a silver medal to another Australian. It sure felt great for us warm water swimmers to take the first two places. The water was 4.2c that day, and there were snow showers blowing across the event location on the shores of Loch Lomond.

Ben Lomond after a dump of snow in mid January 2017, and taken from the water

The location of the Ice Swimming Champs on Loch Lomond in Feb 2017. The wind freshened, the snow showers swept through, and the waves kept getting bigger.
In March and April I continued my skins swimming in Scotland as the water warmed to 6c in March, and then to 10c by the end of April even though winter had finished. The thermal properties of water is something you become very aware of: it takes longer to warm up then the land, and longer to cool down too.

Loch Ard on a peaceful still morning in April 2017. The water was only 6c.
May was the visit to Corfu for some wonderful swimming in The Ionian Sea, which was extremely pleasant after swimming through the Scottish winter. Before moving to the UK, I would have struggled to swim in that Greek water, but now it was a breeze to have the private beach to myself. I would go for a swim at dawn before breakfast, and another swim in the afternoon.

Dawn breaks over the Ionian Sea and the Greek mainland
Upon my return to Scotland I swam around Inchtavannach an island in Loch Lomond. This is a wonderful 5km swim with amazing vistas and is also a good chance to stay in the water for a couple of hours.

The view from the narrows between Inchtavannach and Inchconnachan in Loch Lomond, looking towards Luss and Ben Lomond (behind the clouds)
June mid-summer in Scotland with enough light to swim in from 4am to 11pm. It would be a crime not to take advantage of that, so I did. The solstice dawn swim on 21 June was one such day, where we hit the water as the sun rose at around 4am. This required a departure from home at 3am to get to Loch Lomond, but what a glorious morning it was. The water was a warm 16c, and the colours in the sky were just amazing.

Swimmers prepare to enter the water at Duck Bay on Loch Lomond just before dawn on the summer solstice 2017
I also did a 7km swim n Loch Lomond to support a channel swimmer in training, and also swam in the sea at Troon several times with a relay team that were aiming to swim to Scotland from Northern Island. This MAD mother and daughter team did just that, becoming the first such team to swim the North Channel, and then 2 weeks later they did the English Channel. Huge effort.

Looking across the Corryvreckan towards Scarba from Jura, the route of our swim
July was the trip to Corryvreckan, which is the 3rd largest whirlpool on the planet. I had organised 3 swims for around 35 swimmers over the weekend, and we were fortunate that the weather stayed favourable. We had a great time staying a few nights close by, and having a lot of fun. I did swim the Corryvreckan in skins with a whale passing by, and that water was doing odd things, even at slack tide. A very memorable experience made so much better by the company of such good friends.

The island on the left is Jura and the opposite one is Scarba. The water looks benign glistening in the afternoon sun
I also did several longer two and three-hour swims in the Scottish lochs, as the water warmed up to 16c, sometimes in skins, and sometimes in a wetsuit. One such swim was a three hour swim in Loch Ard with a guy who was training to swim the length of Loch Lomond (35km) in the late summer (which he did, well done Gary).
On a non-swimming event, I also had the honour of attending a Garden Party hosted by Her Majesty the Queen at Holyrood in Edinburgh. I was fortunate to get a ticket through the Australian High Commission who are allocated tickets each year. It was so much fun seeing so many Scots dressed in kilts on a cold July day, and to be within five metres of the Duke of Edinburgh at one stage.

Our fast transport to Kilcreggan before our swim across the Clyde to Greenock in the distance
The month of August gave me the opportunity to do many 2 to 3 km swims in the warm waters of the various local lochs. You really have to take advantage of the short summer. I also competed in two events, the cross Clyde swim, and one of favourite events the boutique Pier to Pub in Loch Lomond. I did both of these in wetsuits for a change, and the Pier swim was a tough one, swimming into a strong wind and chop the whole way. To give you an idea of the impact of that: the race is always over the same course. In 2015, I did the distance in 36 minutes in a wetsuit. This year wearing the wetsuit again, it took 49 minutes due to the impact of the conditions.

The competitors huddled at the start of the Pier to Pub swim in Loch Lomond in August 2017
September was a big month of swimming. At the start of the month, there was the Ten Lochs Challenge, where we swim in 10 lochs in one day. I decided to try to do one km in each loch in skins, but fell just short doing 9km over the day. A truly memorable day with 30 other swimmers all having fun, and enjoying the best of Scotland. Each loch is different, with different scenery, different tasting water, yet so close together. Hopefully we can make this an annual event.

The mist as it lifts off Loch Voil, the second loch in our Ten Loch Challenge in early September 2017
The other adventure was going to Montenegro for a swimming adventure holiday with George, Vince and Kirsty. Now that place is breathtaking with its vistas, as we swam in fjords, rivers, lakes and The Adriatic. And a trip to that part of the world has to be bookended by a few days in Dubrovnik. An incredible trip, with lots of new swim friends made.

The Bay of Kotor in Montenegro with a storm approaching over the mountains in late September 2017
The last three months were the slide into winter, trying to acclimatise myself to swimming skins in the lochs, as mentioned in my previous blog entry.
Overall a pretty good year. Bring on 2018.

A snow-capped Ben Lomond gazing over Loch Ard in mid December 2017
After my return from the trip to Montenegro and Croatia, it was time to prepare for winter swimming. I was planning to swim through this winter without the wetsuit or as they say in this part of the world skins. My plan was simple, keep swimming in the Scottish lochs in skins while the water temperature continued its slide into winter. I had made some progress the previous winter, but this year I wanted to keep the wetsuit in the cupboard as the temperatures dropped.

A frosty morning at Loch Ard in December 2017
It was a shock to return from the warm waters of the Adriatic to the 12c of Loch Ard in early October. But within a couple of weeks, the water had dropped to 10c in Loch Lubnaig. My strategy was to stay in as long as possible with successful half hour swims in 12c water, and by the end of October 10c water. Sure it was never easy to get in at those temperatures, but it was a matter of training and acclimatisation of the body. I learnt to observe how my body reacted to the cold water. Firstly I would get short of breath, but I would swim slowly until it returned to normal. This would take a couple of minutes.

Swimmers in Loch Ard in November 2017
Then as I swam, I would feel my extremities get colder, first my toes, then my fingers, then my legs. But if I kept swimming I would ward off the cold as my skin cooled. I would swim until the point where I felt my muscles were not working properly. At that point I would scan my body and see how cold it was. If it was ok I would swim for another couple of minutes (a watch is vital as a safety device), but would head closer to shore. Then I would head to the edge and get out, trying valiantly to stand on feet that just would not respond to the messages my brain would be sending them.

Loch Ard with clouds gathering
Into November, and as the nights drew in, and the water temperature dropped still further, down to 9c, then 8c, then 7c as the first snow of the season dusted the hills. Some days I would only stay in the water for 20 minutes as I battled to swim a reasonable distance.

Loch Lubnaig looking resplendent in early November 2017 with snow on Ben Ledi
As the festive season came, the water temperature dropped further, down to 6c, then 5c then 4c, and on the cold frosty mornings, it was a struggle to swim when your back was getting cold. But at this time of year it is often warmer in than out. I would never swim alone, but would ensure others were close by. Our favourite swimming spot was Luss on Loch Lomond as at this time of year there were no boats around, and we had the long beach to our selves. It was possible to do a loop down to the pier (smile for the tourists and their cameras as you swim past), and back up to the point, a distance of 600m or so. Do that twice and it was a 1000 metres.

Luss at dawn (9am) in mid December

Just another sunrise at Luss before we start our December swim
Gingerly get out, and get dressed as quickly as the frozen fingers let you. Always a good idea to lay out your clothes beforehand in the car. Have a warm drink from a flask, something to eat, and then once you feel capable, get in the car to drive to the local establishment for an open fire and more hot drinks.

Aldochlay on Loch Lomond looking towards Inchtavannach after a snowfall. In the summer we swim around that island, but in winter it is a huge challenge just to swim there and back
I really enjoyed watching the seasons pass over the autumn, as the leaves changed colour before dropping onto the ground in huge blankets. over a few months you are very conscious of the drift from autumn into winter.
It was not all loch swimming as I also had the opportunity to swim in a 25m outdoor pool at New Cumnock in mid December. This pool which was recently renovated was open for a night swim, and of course the heat was not on. There had been a light dusting of snow that day, and it was so much fun to swim in the pool in skins with the stars above, and snow on the edge of the pool, The best part was standing under a nice warm outdoor shower after the swim.

A night swim at New Cumnock in mid December after a light dusting of snow, with the water a very pleasant 17c
By the end of December, I was swimming 1km regularly in around 25 minutes or so. Sure this was slower than I would do the same distance in a pool, but that was because my muscles were cold, and it was also fresh water. My aim was to swim up to 1200m each time I swam, but I knew that some days were easier than others. But when the vistas are as stunning as these it was easy to get distracted.

Exiting the water at Luss on Boxing Day 2017 under a clear blue sky with snow on the hills. Note the red colour on my shoulders from the cold water

Swimming on Boxing Day 2017 to get rid of some of that Christmas cheer

The city of Kotor in Montenegro
The end of September 2017, and time for a wee swimming adventure with some of my swimming buddies. George and Vince from Glasgow (who went to Milos in 2016 and have shared many adventures in Scotland with me), and Kirsty from London (who shared the Loch Rannoch adventure amongst others) ventured to Montenegro for a week of sun, warm water and some swimming.
Montenegro is a new nation formed out of the former Yugoslavia. It is located south of Dubrovnik, north of Albania, and also has a border with Bosnia, Serbia, and Kosovo. We caught a flight to Dubrovnik, then drove for around 90 minutes to arrive at our rooms on the shores of the Bay of Kotor, which is one of the most beautiful waterways I have ever seen.
The three gentlemen ventured out early for a few days, having fun staying in a shack on the shores of the Bay of Kotor. We swam each morning for an hour or so in lovely warm 23c water before having breakfast. It was great to swim without the fear of getting cold, and to explore. Our shack was right on the shores of the Bay of Kotor, so we could access the water from the front door.

The view of the Bay of Kotor from our rooms
On one of the days we ventured into the city of Kotor, which reminded me very much of Dubrovnik, with its walls and old town. We had a nice wander through the city, and found a some good places to have a cold beer and nice local food. I introduced the others to the octopus salad, and they were not disappointed.

Dawn breaking over the Bay of Kotor
After a few days in the sun, we moved base to Perast to meet up with Kirsty and the other adventurers on our swim holiday. For a change I was not the only Australian on the trip, but I will leave it up to the others to decide if two of us was too much. The group bonded with a swim around the magnificent chapels on Our Lady of the Rocks, and St George at Perast, which have World Heritage Status.

Our pod of swimmers making their way around Our Lady of the Rock
One of the great attractions of this trip is that we got to stay in a guest house that was exclusive to us. It was a superb guest house with breathtaking views of the cruise ships making their way into Kotor. There was only 113 steps up from the street o our rooms, not that I counted.

The view from our room in Perast
Another great attraction of this trip was the variety of swimming. We swam in the Bay of Kotor, doing both coastals and crossings: swam in the river Moraca that feeds into Lake Skadar (the largest lake in eastern Europe, and forms the border with Albania), as well as the lake itself; and swam in the Adriatic in caves.

Sveti Stefan on the coast on the way to Lake Skadar

Moraca River with Lake Skadar beyond

Our group doing its second crossing of the day across the Bay of Kotor, and we stayed in this formation the whole way

Exiting one of the caves along the Adriatic Sea

The afternoon light falling on Perast

Sunset over the Bay of Kotor, with cruise liners just visible in the distance at Kotor

A storm coming over the mountains
After a week of great company, new friends, excellent food, and some of the best swimming, it was time to say a sad farewell to Montenegro. The four of us headed up to Cavtat for a few days in order to explore Dubrovnik (after a recommendation from a fellow swimmer). This village which is just near the airport is a great spot to access the famous city, with lots of daily ferries making the 30 minute journey. It really is one of the best ways to arrive at Dubrovnik, arriving into the old harbour, leaving plenty of time to explore the city made famous by Games of Thrones.

Cavtat with Dubrovnik in the distance
Like all good things, our time in the sun had to end. By the end of the ten days, I had swum 17 times for a total distance of 27.5km, made new friends, and had fun adventures with old friends. If you ever get a chance to go to Montenegro, take the opportunity before it becomes more popular. As you can see from the photos, the scenery is stunning, the weather is fantastic, and the food is excellent (try the octopus).